Banyan Tree AlUla – the perfect backdrop for social posts.

“If you had told me a year ago that Banyan Tree and Habitas would be running 70-80% occupancy in April, I’d have laughed.”

That was Melanie de Souza, Executive Director of Destination Marketing at the Royal Commission for AlUla (RCU), reflecting on what she now sees as a turning point for this ancient desert gem in Saudi Arabia. Long shaped by a clear peak season from October to March, AlUla is challenging the norms of travel seasonality.

Rethinking the calendar

April has traditionally marked the start of AlUla’s low season, with rising desert temperatures thinning out visitor numbers. But this year was different.

“Ramadan overlapped with our peak months, yet January to March held steady,” said de Souza. “And April? It surprised even us.”

Part of this shift, she said, is due to smarter travel behaviour and product adaptation. Hotels have learned to offer more value during the off-season, while travellers are discovering that AlUla is not just tolerable, it’s still very doable with a bit of creativity.

“You just have to know when to go out and when to stay in,” said de Souza with a smile.

Hinat, before and after, the facial reconstruction process which is explained in a video on-site.

I learned that the hard way

I wished I had known that prior to my visit. After a morning flight from Dubai, eager-beaver-traveller me plunged straight into a tour of Hegra, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, in the full blaze of the desert sun. As the temperature crept past 40 degrees, I found myself wondering how the Nabataeans, the ancient Arab people who built this city over two thousand years ago, survived without air-conditioning.

“It probably wasn’t so hot then,” said my Rawi guide, a former teacher turned storyteller, who now spends her days sharing tales of a time “when women held the power and owned the land.”

One of the most powerful stories is that of Hinat, daughter of Wahbu. Her name is etched above the entrance of her tomb at Hegra, in a message that forbids anyone from selling or leasing it. Today, her face, the first known portrait of a Nabataean woman, has been reconstructed from remains and displayed in the museum.

It was a reminder that just as travellers are discovering Hegra, locals are rediscovering their legacy.

Heading out on a safari drive in the heat of the afternoon – you sweat and learn.

Momentum you can measure

Later that day, I joined a nature and wildlife tour where I spotted oryx, ibex and gazelles. Despite the heat, I wasn’t alone. A few travellers, mainly from Europe, were also out, cameras on the ready, curiosity piqued.

And when I went hot air ballooning the next morning, 24 balloons rose into the sky at once, a desert spectacle lifted by demand.

“Obviously, the destination marketing is working,” I said to de Souza.

She smiled. 2024, she said, marked a milestone year. AlUla launched its first global brand campaign, Forever Revitalising, aimed at shifting perceptions and reaching new audiences.

“We saw a 7% increase in brand awareness, and a similar uplift in consideration,” she said. “It’s rewarding to see the metrics matching the momentum we feel.”

The numbers are compelling: 286,000 visitors in 2024, up from 265,000 the previous year. Airline capacity and hotel occupancy both grew by 20%. More significantly, AlUla saw a 30% increase in shoulder and off-season travel, a critical win in its bid to smooth demand year-round.

Hot air balloons in full flight during the AlUla Skies Festival.

A calendar with intent

One strategy to fill the calendar is, quite literally, to create one. When I visited, it was the AlUla Skies Festival. Other signature events – Desert X AlUla, Wadi AlFann, Azimuth – target niche tribes, from art lovers to endurance athletes, reinforcing AlUla’s brand pillars: art, nature, and legacy.

“There’s real momentum behind our nature and wildlife story,” said de Souza, referencing the reintroduction of the Arabian leopard. “We’re building a brand around authentic experiences in a natural setting.”

Growth with purpose

AlUla isn’t racing to scale, it’s expanding with intention. The upcoming 35-room Chedi at Hegra will be the first hotel within a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The restored Hegra Railway Station, now home to a preserved steam engine-turned-restaurant, blends conservation with experience.

New inventory is coming: Hyatt Place with 215 rooms is scheduled to open late 2025 or early 2026, followed by Numaj, a Marriott Autograph Collection hotel in 2027. Future pipeline includes Aman Hegra and The Sharaan Resort by Jean Nouvel.

But AlUla is also looking beyond luxury. Efforts are underway to include the long tail – glamping sites, farms, and home-stays – by encouraging local operators to meet safety and hygiene standards, making room for more “typical Saudi” experiences.

Storytelling as strategy

AlUla’s marketing is digital-first and increasingly, social-first. Different channels, different content: short-form video for TikTok and Snapchat; deeper storytelling on YouTube and Instagram.

“We need content creators who stay true to their roots,” said de Souza. “It’s about fit. Whether it’s a 15-second clip or a longer narrative about food or the oasis tribes, it has to align with our values.”

Local voices are core to this strategy. The Rawi programme – Arabic for “storyteller” – is gaining momentum. “The voices of AlUlans are the heartbeat of our brand.”

Fayez, my Rawi guide, telling the story of AlUla Old Town

The past lives on

At AlUla Old Town, I met Fayez Aljohani, a third-generation AlUlan who left his corporate job at Aramco to become a guide. His income, he told me, has grown significantly since Saudi Arabia opened for tourism.

“This job is so much healthier and more fulfilling,” he said as we walked through the narrow alleys of the town, once a vibrant stop along the incense and spice route. The town thrived for centuries until the 1980s, when electricity and modern housing lured families to newer parts of the region.

Fayez is a well-known figure in town. He strides through it with a sense of ownership and pride. He proudly told me that he was mentioned in Lonely Planet. “You know it?” he asked. I nodded. I asked if he was on social media as an influencer. “I tried it, but it didn’t suit me,” he said, as he continued to regale me with stories of old.

Now, the Old Town – with its 900 homes, 500 shops, and five town squares – is being carefully restored.

Part of the AlUla Old Town, yet to be restored.

Desert past, desert future

That night, as I dined alfresco at Joontos, serving modern Saudi cuisine by Michelin-starred Chef Jaume Puigdengolas, one of the town’s leading boutique hotels, Dar Tantora The House Hotel, glowed in the background.

As cool air drifted in, I couldn’t help but wonder: what would Hinat make of all this? The land she once claimed for herself and her descendants is now welcoming the world, on her terms, and in her story.